Surviving Nepal: gear tips and advice


In the fall of 2014, my wife, Sonia, and I set out on a 200-mile trekking trip to Nepal to experience the famous Annapurna Circuit along with a few side trips.

As we were starting the trek, along with a local guide we’d hired, a line of thunderstorms in the Indian Ocean spawned a Category 4 cyclone, which caught Nepal by surprise. We were about halfway around the circuit in a communications black hole, getting ready to cross an 18,000-foot pass when balmy weather turned into a snowstorm.

Many were trapped up high without the proper equipment. Some had never seen snow before. While we were safe in a village at 12,000  feet, the storm unleashed avalanches everywhere. An estimated 43 people died from slides and exposure. The story made international news at the time. To escape, we backtracked over swollen rivers and mudslides. It was a sad march as we mourned those who didn’t make it out.

Don’t get me wrong. While we experienced shadow, we also saw an abundance of light. It was a magnificent trip and I miss Nepal and its wonderful people every day. I can’t stop thinking about returning to snow leopard country.

As I was unpacking the gear at home, it got me thinking about what worked and what didn’t. If you’re heading that way, here are some tips:

HELICOPTER RESCUE: We researched many travel insurance companies but couldn’t find one that we were comfortable with. Many customers had horror stories about some companies not paying out on claims.

We joined the American Alpine Club, which offers a $5,000 helicopter rescue benefit (international or domestic) through Global Rescue. When our family couldn’t contact us, we were temporarily put on a list of missing people. Global Rescue acted quickly and professionally and was able to confirm through our guide service that we were OK. Although the helicopter didn’t have to go after us, we were impressed with Global Rescue’s response.

SICKNESS: Although the avalanches and landslides didn’t get us, the bacteria did. After we both came down with severe intestinal infections, we went to the Celestial Health Care Center in Pokhara. The pills (Cipro) we’d brought with us weren’t strong enough. A great doctor fixed us up with more powerful antibiotics and probiotics manufactured in India. It did the trick. The health center charged us only $60 each for the examination, medication and free follow-up visits. The money charged to foreigners then goes to provide free health care to Nepalis.

The doctor mentioned five things westerners should not eat in Nepal if they want to avoid getting sick. It’s a little tough because the food is so good.


  1. Lassi drinks (yogurt)
  2. Meat
  3. Fresh juice
  4. Salads
  5. Milkshakes or any other kind of shakes

GEAR: Because we live in Colorado, we were able to test the gear throughly before we left. But on the Annapurna Circuit, as with other treks in Nepal, you encounter a variety of conditions from the sweltering lowlands to the upper alpine landscapes. I won’t repeat what’s on many other gear lists, but I want to highlight a handful of items.

  • Cocoon MummyLiner (silk): Provides a luxury sheet for your sleeping bag or can be used alone in hot climates. Easy to wash and dries out fast. Doesn’t weigh anything. Blankets and sheets at teahouses are notoriously dirty.
  • SmartWool Hike Crew Socks: These worked great, especially when paired with SmartWool liner socks. No blisters. They do take awhile to dry out after you wash them. The liner socks dry much faster and give you the feeling of having fresh socks.
  • Outdoor Research Sun Runner Cap: I’ve yet to get sunburn on my face or neck when I wear this hat properly. Lightweight and packs down to nothing.
  • prAna Stretch Zion Pant: Best hiking pants I’ve ever owned. Amazingly comfortable and durable. Dry fast. Roll them up in hot climates to avoid the chimney effect caused by warmth from your boots.
  • SteriPEN Classic 3 with Pre-Filter: This worked without fail to purify water on the fly. I didn’t have to carry as much water. The pre-filter came in handy as there was sediment at some water taps. I used chlorine tablets for backup.
  • Survive Outdoors Longer Emergency Bivvy: I left this item out at the last minute, but I won’t make that mistake again. We were nearly in a survival situation and it could have helped me or someone else.

BONUS TIP: Tuck lithium batteries in your sleeping bag at night to keep them warm and minimize depletion.

DIY ultralight backpacking gear

cutting holes in stove
Photo courtesy Andrew Skurka.

With an explosion of ultralight outdoor gear on the market and a cultural shift toward endurance events, backpackers are hiking farther and faster. But some of the lightest and most useful gadgets can be assembled in minutes with household materials.

Andrew Skurka is one of the most experienced long-distance backpackers in the world and a discerning critic when it comes to gear. After making hikes of up to nearly 7,800 miles, he knows what works and what doesn’t. So what does a professional rely on to cook his evening meals while in the field? An alcohol-burning stove made from a cat food can.

Skurka started using the “Fancy Feast” stove, made from a 3-ounce aluminum can, after it was presented to him by a visitor at one of his backpacking clinics in 2006. Skurka demonstrated it recently at a presentation in Golden, Colo., and says it works great for one to two people.

Simply put, it’s a matter of removing the lid and food, cleaning the can, and strategically punching vent holes in the side. Then you pour in a tiny bit of denatured alcohol (depending on desired cooking time) and light it up, provided you’re in a well-ventilated area. A cooking pot then goes on top of the can.

The stove has its own underground following with backpackers bent on improving it. While many other shapes have been tried, the cat can, in particular, provides excellent heat flow and conductivity.

Jim Wood has produced some of the most detailed information on the concept. Wood gets somewhat scientific about the placement and number of vent holes and provides the precise measurements on his website. The vent holes are critical for determining if the stove works properly and how quickly it heats food. Wood has created what he calls the “Super Cat,” capable of boiling water rapidly, and another version, “Simmering Cat,” for slower cooking.

On his site, Wood goes over the dangers such as carbon monoxide poisoning and unintentional fires. He also provides tips on making accessories such as wind screens, snuffer caps and boiling pots from other common materials.

Besides low weight and foolproof simplicity, fuel availability is one of the biggest reasons the cat can stoves have become so popular. Denatured alcohol, the fuel of choice because Wood says it burns hot and clean, can be obtained at hardware, automotive and liquor stores. Some people have even assembled the stoves while on the trail.

Other simple tricks

Here are some other ideas gathered from weight-obsessed backpackers to help you keep things light and simple.

Staying dry: Skurka inserts a trash compactor bag inside his pack. The unique dimensions fit nicely and keep his bedding and extra clothing dry in surprise rainstorms or during stream crossings.

Food seasoning: Take multicolored drinking straws and fill them with your favorite herbs and spices. Use a different color for each seasoning and cut the length of the straws for the desired servings. Burn the ends of the straws to seal them.

Fire starting: Make survival fire-starting materials with cotton balls and petroleum jelly. On his blog, Leon Pantenburg describes how to do this along with using a sparking device.

Lighter feet: While it’s nice to relieve your back of excess weight, it’s important not to forget the feet when backpacking. There have been numerous studies about how wearing lighter footwear can save a disproportionate amount of energy compared with lightening the pack. Skurka wears trail running shoes with ankle-high gators to keep out debris. For extra stability, he uses lightweight trekking poles.